This Balboa® printed circuit board (PCB) is for 2000LE hot tub control systems. Supports a 2-speed primary and secondary pump, blower, circ pump, ozonator/UVC, & light.
- Genuine OEM Board
- Compatible with Serial STD topside control keypads
Product Notes: Supports one light - either standard 12V spa light or 120V fiber optic lighting. M7 Technology - No pressure switch required. Balboa® circuit boards must be identified with the chip number and/or part number to guarantee the existing control keypad and other components will function. See below for associated part & chip numbers. Circuit boards are not returnable.
Primary Pump Circuit: 2-Speed - 120V/240V
Secondary Pump Circuit: 2-Speed - 120V/240V
Blower Circuit: 120V/240V
Light Circuit:12V Spa Light or 120V Fiber Optics
Ozone/UVC Circuit: 120V/240V
Circulation Pump Circuit:120V/240V
A/V Circuit:Not Supported
Compatible Control Keypad Type: Serial STD topside
Compatible Keypad Part Numbers:51057, 51247, 51452, 54170
Chip Numbers: 2000M7R1A, 2000M7R1B, 2000M7R1C, 33-52320-K, ALP2M7R1A, ALP2M7R1B, ALP2M7R1C, BULF70R1A, BULF70R1B, BULF70R1C, HS2000, HS200M7R1A, KEYS31LEM7R1A, KEYS31LEM7R1B, KEYS31LEM7R1C, KEYS31R1A, PHX15R1A, PHX15R1B, PHX20R1A, SUNS25R1A, SUNS25R1B, SUNS25R1C
Cross Reference Numbers: 33-52320-K, 52320, 52320-01, 52388, 52702, 52941, 53435, 53864, and 59-138-1043.
Warranty: 1 year Limited Manufacturer’s Warranty
IMPORTANT: Damage due to incorrect installation is not covered under warranty.
The board I bought is used on more than one type of hot tub. After I installed board, I had a few problems with pumps not working that were working before. After reaching out to Spa Depot about my problems, and numerous phone calls and or emails of pictures, they walked me through on how to resolve my problem.
Replacing an old board that burned due to a loose heater element connection. The new board is an exact match, but does not come with any hardware. We got new heater jumpers, but had to find our own new nuts, bolts, and washers to get the new board fully installed. -- Worked perfectly. Note: Our circulating pump is 220v. We found terminals that were powered with 220 all the time, and landed the leads there. For some reason, our old board was only wired to give our pump 120v in its original configuration.
I purchased the control board based on the model and serial number reference. I noticed there was another board that seemed identical for about $10 less. I installed the control board and the jumper for the recirculating pump that supplied 110volts didn't have any current, thus the circulation pump which works didn't start. I ended up just using the 110 block to supply the current. Not the end of the world other than the time spent troubleshooting the problem, but I imagine the other board may not have this issue. Yes dip switch #3 was set to on fwiw.