A common problem with aging spas is pump failure.  We'll guide you through the process of replacing a spa pump... thus restoring your hot tub for many more years of use & enjoyment.  For ease of installation, we recommend replacement of the entire pump, not just the motor or wet end-- you'll have fewer headaches in the long run.

See Spa Equipment Troubleshooting for details on repairing components.

Symptoms of Spa Pump Failure

There are several signs of hot tub pump failure:

• Malfunctions that prevent the motor from turning,  including frozen shaft or bearings, may result in a humming noise.
• A jammed impeller (inside the wet end) can do  the same, as can a defective starting capacitor.
• Badly worn bearings may cause a whining noise.
• Leaks around the pump often indicate a failure of the pump seals.  You will likely observe a puddle of water below the pump when these seals go bad.

You could replace these individual components (if you can find the proper parts).  But if your pump is more than a couple years old, it is generally better to replace the entire pump-- motor and wet end.  This is a cleaner and much easier repair, which results in a greater reliability factor in the long run.  Our quality Replacement Spa Pumps are not expensive.  In fact, we charge less for complete brand-new pumps (motor and wet end) than some others charge for just the motor.

Anatomy of Hot Tub Pumps

Pumps are basically comprised of two main components: the wet end containing an impeller (which moves the water) and the electric motor (the dry end) which turns the impeller.

Removing the Old Pump
DISCONNECT POWER & READ SAFETY WARNING

Spa Equipment Access

The best way to assure obtaining the correct replacement pump, is to remove the old unit prior to ordering the new one.  This will allow you to make inspections and measurements to assure a correct match.

Photo courtesy: Belize Spas

After disconnecting the electrical power, remove the spa's access panel. Identified here in the hot tub's equipment bay: Hot tub pump Equipment control system

Some spas will have two gate or slice valves installed at either side of the pump (1).  If so, close these valves prior to removing the pump.  If no valves are present, drain the spa.

Disconnecting the Old Spa Pump

Disconnect the bare copper bonding wire from the pump's ground terminal.   Unscrew the pump's two unions.  Some residual water will drain out.   Remove the mounting screws from the pump base bracket.

Although the pump's power cable is still attached to the control system, the pump can now be lifted out of the equipment bay.

Cable Detachment The old power cable* will be used for the replacement pump, if in serviceable condition.  Loosen the cable clamp screws.  The pump end will also have an a removable access cover with terminal connections inside.

Remove the cable, making a note of wire color codes and connections.  Make sure the wire ends are clean for a good connection to your new pump.  Most spa pumps are two speed units, with the low speed used for filtration and heating cycles.  Two speed 230V pumps have 4 wires: red, black, white, and green.  Red is normally low speed, and black high speed.  The white wire is common and the green is ground.

*Note:  If you are also purchasing a new EasyPak spa control system from us, there is no need to save the old pump cable, as a new one is provided with the new spa pack.

Determine Pump Voltage & Horsepower

While all 110-120V spas use 115V pumps,  not all spas wired for 220-240V use 230V pumps.  Some use 115V pumps.  So check your owner's manual, and look at the label on the old pump to determine the voltage.  The label should also indicate the horsepower and amperage.  See pump specifications for a cross reference.

Some people desire to increase the spa jet action by upgrading to a larger pump.  This is generally not a problem if the spa's control system and the electrical service can accommodate the added amperage. As a rule of thumb, do not increase the pump horsepower more than one level of magnitude.  For example, upgrading a 1 HP pump to 1.5 HP, or a 3 HP pump to 4 HP is reasonable.  Avoid jumping from 2 HP to 5 HP as such a radical increase may cause problems like cavitation, uncomfortable jet pressure, or excessive current draw.

Determine Form Factor The two spa pump form factors refer to the outflow or discharge fitting on the Wet End, as shown here.  Old pump will be either Center Discharge or Side Discharge.

Center Discharge Side Discharge

In most cases you need to match the existing form factor to get the components to match up.  Where you can use either form, select Side Discharge which is much more efficient than a Center Discharge pump of the same horsepower.  See Pump Selection Chart

Continuous Circulating Pumps In addition to the main pump, some spas also utilize a small continuous circulation pump.  Most spa circ pumps have 3/4" barbed fittings for flex hose, which makes replacement very easy.  See Circulating Pumps

Determine Pump Plumbing Size

Plumbing size is very important, but a lot of people get it wrong and end up ordering the wrong pump.  Most spa pumps are either 1.5" or 2" plumbing. With the pump removed, measurement is simple. Here's the easy way to get it right for most* brands of hot tub pumps:

	Most 1.5" pumps will have an outside thread measurement of about 2-3/8" across.
	Most 2.0" pumps will have an outside thread measurement of about 3" across.

*Note: Some brands of pumps (such as Hayward, Jacuzzi, and Sta-Rite) use non-standard fittings with different dimensions.  Please contact our Parts Technical Help for assistance with these if in doubt.

Installing the New Pump

The installation of your replacement pump is essentially the reverse of the removal process described above.  Once again, verify that the power is disconnected from the spa before proceeding.

Connecting Pump Power Cable

Most spa pumps are two speed units, with the low speed used for filtration and heating cycles.  Two speed 230V pumps have 4 wires: red, black, white, and green.  Red is normally low speed, and black high speed.  The white wire is common and the green is ground.

Remove a wiring plug from the new pump motor end and install a cable connector clamp. Remove the wiring access cover from the end of the new pump motor. Attach the pump power cable wires and ground. Replace access cover. Tighten cable clamp.

Make sure the wire ends are clean for a good connection to your new pump. Our replacement pumps have a label diagram showing the wiring scheme.

Setting Up the New Pump

• Reattach the bare copper bonding wire to the pump grounding terminal.
• Set the pump in place, carefully aligning it to the union connections.
• Start the base mount screws, but do not tighten them yet.
• Hand tighten the unions.  Do not use a wrench.
• Tighten the pump base screws.

You may be able to reuse your old unions, or you can order new ones to match your plumbing size.  We also have a special reducer union (#BX9924) which will convert a 2" pump to match 1.5" spa plumbing.

Most spa pumps are designed for below water level (flooded suction) installation, to make certain that they fill with water. Their unions are compression fittings which should be correctly aligned with the male wet-end threads to allow the integral O-ring to seat properly.

Flooding the Pump

After installation and wiring hookup, but prior to powering-on the spa, make certain to open the valves (if so equipped) to flood the pump and prevent an air lock.  If you have drained the spa, refill it with fresh water.

IMPORTANT:  Now purge the pump of any remaining air pockets by loosening the pump unions until all air has escaped (you'll hear it)-- then hand retighten.  Running a pump dry will cause damage and void the warranty.

Testing and Inspection

• Inspect the installation to verify that everything is properly connected.
• Mop up any spilled water.
• Reconnect power source.
• Operate spa for a few minutes and observe for leaks or air locks.
• Replace equipment bay access door.

Our replacement pumps are designed to equal or surpass OEM specifications.  We use only brand new, premium-quality Waterway® pump wet ends and new (not remanufactured) motors-- the best money can buy.

Model	Volts	HP	High Speed	Low Speed	Plumbing Choices
BX4100-C1	115	.75	8.8 Amps	2.6 Amps	1.5" Center Discharge
BX4101-	115	1.0	11 Amps	2.9 Amps	1.5" Center Discharge 2.0" Side Discharge
BX4102-	115	1.5	16.4 Amps	4.4 Amps	1.5" Center or Side Discharge 2.0" Side Discharge
BX4103-	230	1.5	8 Amps	2.6 Amps	1.5" Center Discharge 2.0" Side Discharge
BX4104-	230	2.0	10.5 Amps	2.6 Amps	1.5" Center Discharge 2.0" Side Discharge
BX4105-S2	230	3.0	10 Amps	3.4 Amps	2.0" Side Discharge
BX4106-S2	230	4.0	12 Amps	4.4 Amps	2.0" Side Discharge
BX4107-S2	230	5.0	16.4 Amps	4.8 Amps	2.0" Side Discharge

*Specifications subject to change without notice.