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Spa
runs, but does not heat; insufficient heat.
Components
associated:
- Flow/Pressure
Switch
- Thermostat
- Heater
Contactor/Relay
- Heater
Element
- Spa Side
Control
- Filter
Cartridge
A) Check incoming power for proper potential (voltage 110 or 220vac).
Do not continue until power checks correctly.
B) If
installing a new Control
System, make sure that the heater is installed after the
pump. The heater's flow/pressure switch will not function
correctly if mounted before the pump, i.e. the pressure switch
will prevent the heater from being energized. C)
If pump runs, but there is no water flow, and hence no heat, you
may have an air-lock in the pump
wet end. Correct
this problem by closing the valve on the suction
(intake) side of the pump and then loosen the front pump union
just enough to allow the trapped air to escape from inside.
Retighten the union, open valve, and re-energize the system.
NOTE: On newer spa
packs, a no-flow condition will normally cause the flow
switch to cut power to the heater, and/or the hi-limit
switch to trip, disconnecting power to all components. On
older systems, the hi-limit may only cut power to the heater
element itself, allowing the pump to run in a dry condition,
which in turn may damage the pump. D) Turn
thermostat full clockwise (CW) and switch to thermostat mode. If
low speed pump engages, check for power at heater element terminals. If power is good but unit still does not show increased temperature within two hours, replace
heater element.
E) If power is not correct at
heater element, jump out flow/pressure switch connections and recheck power at heater. If power is now correct,
flow/pressure switch has failed or is incorrectly adjusted. If power is still incorrect, check heater
contactor (110
or 220vac line side contact voltage, 110vac coil voltage, 110 or 220vac load side contact voltage). If line side contact voltage is bad, check line input terminal connections (check also for proper jumper placement if unit is running 110v). If coil voltage is bad and pressure switch is jumped out,
this indicates an internal wiring problem. If line input and coil voltages check good but there is no power on load connection or at heater, replace contactor.
F) If the
pump does not engage with the thermostat fully CW and the unit in thermostat mode, switch to time clock mode. Rotate
timer face clockwise, with some trippers set in and some set out, until low speed engages. If low speed does not engage, go to section on
No Low Speed Pump. If low speed does engage with timer, switch back to thermostat mode and jump between terminals on thermostat. If
low speed and heat will not engage with thermostat bypassed and previous checks show good,
this indicates an internal wiring problem. If low speed/heat engages, pull thermostat bulb from
thermo-well and inspect capillary for damage (replace if kinked, crimped or damaged). Let bulb reach air temperature, remove
jumper; if low speed/heat engages once bulb cools, either thermostat is out of calibration or flow past the thermostat bulb/manifold is incorrect. Check the
valves for restriction or closure, filter element for clogging
or reduced flow, etc. If flow is correct, replace thermostat.
G) If the low speed/heat does not engage without the
thermostat connections jumped
with bulb at air temp and thermostat full CW but will with thermostat connections bypassed, replace the thermostat.
H) If using a
spa side control, unplug spa side and attempt to operate using
thermostat on control
box, if so equipped. If still incorrect and symptoms do not change, follow steps A) through E). If unit heats less or more
using control box thermostat than with spa side control, but still incorrectly, this indicates a
water flow problem.
I) If unit works correctly with
thermostat on control but incorrectly with
spa side, replace spa
side control.
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